ReignOnU wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 11:15 am
You're not paying the money as much for the bike as you are the program. Peloton has created a crazy following, similar to the initial surge of Crossfit.
If you're looking for that kind of competitive atmosphere (riding in a group setting, virtually), but you don't need the instructor led portion of it, this is what I'd recommend:
- Go to Facebook Marketplace and get yourself either a hybrid bike or road bike. If you're patient, over the course of a week or 2, you'll find a really nice $1000-$1500 bike for less than $700.
- Next, pickup a hydraulic trainer. You swap out the rear spindle for the extended spindle for the trainer and now you've got an elite stationary bike. ($50-$75 on Facebook)
- You'll need a cadence sensor and likely a power meter (about $150).
- Finally, download Zwift. It's about $10 a month and it's the app that offers the virtual training.
Now you've got a really damn good bike and you've got a large portion of the Peloton experience, for half of the price.
Global Cycling Network is a good follow if you want to learn about cycling. Here's a video on Zwift.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8feAlwHFs-U
George / JD... so coming back to this. First, the difference between a Peloton or other smart bike (Wahoo Kickr, Saris, etc) is that they sync via Ant+/BT to a device (phone, AppleTV, etc) or they have their own interactive screen. From there, with Peloton for instance, you take part in live scheduled classes or do other training sessions/rides. The software then adjusts your resistance and in some cases angles, while you're completing it. In the case of Zwift, which I mentioned above, you can do live races with people from all over the world and you can do open rides in their virtual worlds. Zwift is as much a 'game' as it is exercise. You have an avatar, you get currency, you can upgrade equipment, you can compete with others, or you can just train. No different than have a MyPlayer in NBA 2K, except instead of input from your PS4 controller, you are using real stats from your power meter through your cycling setup.
So with that said, we'll see how my advice above, about Zwift, plays out. Here's where I'm at:
- I have been searching Facebook Marketplace and I found and purchased a 2014 Ridley X-Fire (full carbon bike, Ultegra setup, weighs nothing) for $600. The current blue book on the bike is $1100, retailed for $3500.
- Instead of the cheap magnetic/liquid trainer with the cadence and speed senors, and power meter, I'm opting for a "smart trainer." I have the cadence and speed sensors on my hybrid bike right now, but 1 thing I didn't consider in the recommended setup is that I'm on a cross bike, which doesn't use a slick tire. I have small knobs to handle gravel/light trail and these don't work great with the other setup. I don't feel like putting together a rear tire for it. I've found a CycleOps Hammer trainer that retails for around $1100, that I'm heading to pickup from the marketplace, for $425.
- I'll have to get a cassette for it that matches what is on my bike currently, so I don't have to waste time adjusting the rear derailleur. That'll cost me at most $50 new (likely to get new because it's faster and longer life if I ride a lot of miles).
As an update to what I've learned... if your only goal was to get up and running on Zwift and you're not concerned about the racing vs others part, you can do this pretty cheap. Again, I highly recommend Facebook Marketplace and being a little patient.
- Used entry level, but quality, bike. Alloy frame. 700c wheels. Shimano Altus, Alivo, Claris or Sora components. Will be $300 or less. It can be hybrid, road, whatever... as long as it fits you properly (look this up!) and it has a slick or near slick rear tire.
- Used liquid or magnetic trainer $50
- Speed / Cadence sensor bundle $70 on amazon, I've seen $40 on marketplace.
Under $400 will get you out in the Zwift world doing about 80% of what is available. You won't have the system setting resistance for you, instead you'll be required to maintain a certain power output, which is calculated by sensor input. I'd recommend a liquid trainer, because it allows you to shift gears and when you shift, the harder you pedal, it creates direct resistance. Mag you have to get off the bike and adjust. You can simulate flats/hills by shifting gears on your bike and maintaining whatever power output they request in the game.
If you have any questions, fire away... I'm still learning, but I've picked up a ton of info lately.
